Cosmetic Excipients :
It is defined as The ingredients other than the main active ingredient in any cosmoceutical product are known as cosmetic excipients.
Cosmetic excipients are:
1. Surfactants
2. Rheology modifier
3. Humectants
4. Emollients
5. Preservatives
1. Surfactants :
It has foaming capacity by micelle formations, viscosity, skin tolerance,. It reduces the surface tension.
Types of surfactants :
1. Anionic surfactants
2. Cationic surfactant
3. Non ionic surfactant
4. Amphoteric surfactant
5. Specialized surfactant
1. Anionic surfactant : eg: sulphonate, phosphate, ester, sulphur, carboxylate, sulphate etc.
2. Cationic surfactant : eg: Alkylamine, alkyl imidazole, quaternary Ammonium compound, Heterocyclic Ammonium salt, ethoxylated alkyl amine.
3. Non-ionic surfactant : eg: fatty alcohol, ether, ester, aminoxicide, ethoxylated oil and fat.
4. Amphoteric surfactant : stabilizing and thickening, skin irritation reduction. Eg: Alkyl ethelene diamine and its derivatives, N alkyl amino acid.
5. Specialized surfactant : eg: 1) Alkoxylated polysiloxane chain of siloxale.
2) fluoro surfactant: Fluro alkyl chain.
These are used in protective cream, liquid soap, shave cream, shampoo, conditioner.
2. Rheology modifier :
Flow property of solid is maintained or alter or change.
3. Humectants :
These are hygroscopic substances which retain moisture.
Eg: butylene glycol, pyrolidone Carboxylic acid, propylene glycol, protein, sorbitol, urea etc.
Applications : 1. To moisturize skin
2. To moisturize hair.
4. Emollients :
These are the substances which softens the skin. For external use. Natural Moisturizing factor present in stratum corneum of skin.
Types of Emollients :
1) Lipophilic emollients : ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerine, isopropyl alcohol.
2) Hydrophilic emollients : ethoxylated fatty alcohol, propoxylated fatty alcohol.
3) Lanoline : Lisithin and silicone derivatives.
5. Preservatives :
Natural or synthetic substances added to pharmaceutical dosage forms and cosmetic preparation to prevent or inhibit the microbial growth. An ideal preservative would be effective at low concentration against all possible microorganisms, be non toxic and compatible with other constituents of the preparations and be stable for the shelf life of preparation. It ensures product safety.
Ideal properties of preservatives :
1. It should be non irritant
2. It should be nontoxic
3. It should be physically and chemically stable.
4. Preservatives should be compatible with other ingredients used in formulations.
5. It should act as good anti-microbial agent and should exert wide spectrum of activity.
6. It should be potent.
7. It should produce desired effects.
Classification :
On the basis of the variety
A) classification based on mode of action
a. Antioxidants: eg: vit E, vit C, BHA
B. Antimicrobial Agebts: eg: benzoate, sodium benzoate sorbates, paraben
C. Chelating agents: eg: polyphosphates, citric acid, EDTA
B) Classification based on source :
a. Natural preservatives : eg: Neem oil, salt, lemon honey
B. Artificial preservatives : eg: Benzoates, sodium benzoate sorbate, propionate, nitrites